GALERIE MAZARINE
INFO-TECHNIQUES
PRINT
TECHNIQUES
SILK
PAINTING TECHNIQUE
THANGKA
PAINTING TECHNIQUE
I.
'ORIGINAL PRINTS'
INTRODUCTION
Original prints ~ Monoprints
and monotypes ~
Limited edition prints ~ Hand colored prints
RELIEF PROCESS
Woodcuts ~ Wood engravings ~ Linoleum cuts ~ Stamped prints
INTAGLIO PROCESS
Engravings ~ Steel engravings ~ Stipple engravings ~ Drypoints
Mezzotints/Manière
noire ~ Etchings ~ Aquatint ~ Collagraphs
PLANOGRAPHIC
PROCESS
Original lithographs ~ Chromolithographs ~ Collatypes
STENCIL PROCESS
Serigraphs ~ Pochoir prints
MIXED
MEDIA PRINTS
VISCOSITY
PRINTS
CHINE
COLLE
TRANSFER
PRINTS
II. NOT 'ORIGINAL
PRINTS'
PHOTO-MECHANICAL
PROCESS
Offset lithographs ~ Mylar transfers
COLOR COPIES
GICLEE
PRINTS
~
I.
'ORIGINAL PRINTS'
What is an 'Original Print'?
With
friendly permission by the author
Bill Wheeler
www.studio1617.com
Original
prints are works
of art created by hand and printed by hand, either
by the artist or by a professional assistant (often
called an artisan), from a plate, block, stone, or
stencil that has been hand-created by the artist for
the sole purpose of producing the desired image. The
plates or stencils it is printed from bear no resemblance
to the finished work of art, which means it is not
a copy or a reproduction of anything. In fact, in all
print media but two, the image on the matrix (what
the print is produced from) is mirror image or backwards
from what the finished work will be. The image reverses
in the printing process so the artist has to think
and draw backwards. Each print produced is technically
a unique work although produced as a signed and numbered
multiple. The technical term for this is monoprint.
The original print is usually produced as a limited
number of impressions, another word for print. The
term for this group of prints is the edition. Although
there are many with the same image in an edition, each
print is an individual part of the whole, the whole
being the edition. An original print is actually one
piece of a multiple original work of art.
Traditionally original prints are signed in pencil
by the artist. They are numbered to indicate how many
prints there are in the edition and to identify the
individual print. This number appears written as a
fraction, for example: 34 / 75. This is called the
edition number. The number to the right of the slash
(in this example, 75) indicates the size of the edition:
75 prints have been produced. The number to the left
is the actual number of the print. This number is read: "print number thirty-four
of seventy-five". There are other types of identifying marks as
well. The artist traditionally keeps a separate group of prints aside
from the edition marked as artist's proofs, normally about ten or less.
These are marked A / P, or E / A (), sometimes with an edition number
after (such as: A / P 2 / 5) to indicate how many A / P's there are.
During the course of developing the image an artist may pull many experimental
images before modifying the plates to achieve the finished product. These
are referred to as state proofs, trial proofs, or color proofs. When
the image is finally perfected the printer's proof or bon-a'-tirer (signed
B.A.T.) is pulled. This is the image that the rest of the edition is
matched to and there is only one of these. The artisan printer traditionally
gets to keep the printer's proof.
Monoprints
and Monotypes. These two terms are often confused
with each other. A monoprint is the term for any individual original
print that is part of a limited edition as opposed to a reproduction,
which is a copy of something else, such as a poster print of
a painting. A monoprint can also be any of a number of prints
pulled from a single plate, but with no attempt to print any
two the same way. A monotype however is a unique work of art
usually printed from a smooth flat surface such as a sheet of
plastic. The artist paints by hand the image to be printed directly
on this smooth surface and then places a sheet of paper over
the freshly painted surface, cranks it through a press, and so
creates a one-of-a-kind work of art. Monotypes, by their nature,
cannot be produced as an edition. If they are numbered at all
they are numbered as 1 / 1.
Limited-Edition
Prints. Many print collectors are confused by
the terms "original print" and "limited-edition
print". The two are not synonymous. The term "original
print" is a specific term; "limited-edition" is
a general term. An original print is almost always a limited-edition
print simply because the edition is limited to the actual number
of prints that can be safely "pulled" or printed from
the plates before the plates begin to wear out and break down
from the physical wear and tear of the printing process. But
a limited-edition print may or may not be an original work of
art. It might be just a photo mechanical reproduction of a painting,
photograph, drawing, etc., in other words no more than a poster.
The edition may be limited to an arbitrary number of 500, 1000,
often more, and is sometimes even signed in pencil by the artist.
It is not, however, actually made by the artist. The term "limited
edition" is vague. When purchasing a work of art it's a
good idea to know whether or not you're buying the real thing,
if you truly want the "real thing". There is a reason
for reproductions and posters in the print collectors' market;
a reproduction sells for hundreds or even thousands of dollars
less than an original work by the same artist.
Hand-colored
Prints. Copper engravings were colored by hand
as early as the eighteenth century. Mostly done in workshops,
colorists were employed by the artist and/or publisher to produce
color prints. Lithographs during the nineteenth century were
colored in a similar fashion. Hand
coloring has become mostly an extinct art form during the twentieth
century as far as book printing is concerned. |
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RELIEF PROCESS
This, the oldest and most basic method of
making a print, evolved in China sometime around 800 A.D.
It is based on the principle of cutting away part of the
surface of a block of material so that the image area to
be printed stands out in relief to form a printing surface.
The ink can be rolled on to the surface to be printed (called
a block in this form of printing) with a rubber or gelatin
roller (also called a brayer) or can be applied to the block
with a short-bristled brush. Paper is placed over the freshly
inked surface and pressure is applied to transfer the ink
from the block to the paper. The pressure may come from cranking
the block through a printing press or the pressure may be
applied by hand by rubbing the back of the paper with a wooden
or bamboo tool called a baren. Some artists prefer to substitute
the back of a wooden spoon for the baren.
Woodcuts. This technique involves the use of a plank of wood or plywood
on which the artist draws a design and then carves away the wood in the
parts of the picture that are not to be printed. The raised surface retains
some of the pattern of the wood grain which shows up in the finished
prints. Only one or two colors can be applied to the plate at one time.
For prints with many colors a separate block must be carved for each
color, and must line up exactly with all the other blocks or the print
will be out of register like a badly printed color newspaper photograph.
This is the process that gave rise to the first information revolution
and helped to start the Renaissance. Johannes Gutenberg invented the
printing press and movable type in the 1400's. His books were all printed
from these little blocks of wood carved into the shape of letters and
the pictures were printed from woodcuts.
Wood Engravings. In this type of printing a piece of boxwood is cut perpendicular
to the grain of the wood. Since the resulting end grain offers a smoother
and more uniform surface than in regular woodcuts, little or none of
the wood texture is seen in the print. Wood engravings are almost always
small, usually under 5 x 6 inches because boxwood does not grow very
large. Larger blocks can be made by laminating small pieces of wood together.
This technique is seldom used today. In the past it was used mostly for
book illustrations in hand-printed volumes mainly because the block can
last for hundreds or even thousands of copies, and this process produces
an image of very fine detail. There was a large revival of this technique
in the 1930's among many American WPA artists.
Linoleum Cuts, or lino-cuts, are almost identical to woodcuts. The only
principle differences are the material and the ease of cutting the plates.
The artist works on battleship linoleum, which is not the kind that is
used in kitchens today. It is a very thick and pliable material that
cuts with a knife or other cutting tool quite easily. Inking and printing
are exactly the same as in woodcuts. Sometimes artists use linoleum for
their color plates behind a final run of a woodcut because this medium
is so easy and quick to work in.
Stamped Prints. This is the most basic of all print processes. It consists
of simply applying ink or paint to something and transferring the ink
to the surface to be printed. This process includes such simple things
as rubber stamp prints, potato block prints, finger prints and hand prints.
All of these humble techniques have been used at one time or another
by many well-known artist. |
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INTAGLIO PROCESS
The
process of intaglio, incised or copperplate printing uses a
principle opposite to that of relief printing. The image to
be printed is sunk into the printing surface (which in this
process is called a plate) and filled with a greasy printer's
ink. Then the surface is carefully wiped clean so that the
ink remains only in the incised design. The great pressure
required to pick up the ink in the intaglio printing leaves
a visible plate mark within the margin of the uncompressed
paper.
Intaglio plates can also be printed by the relief process. This results
in a negative image, for example, white lines on a black background.
The two processes may also be combined on the same plate as in a viscosity
print, or stencils can be used to apply some color in precisely the right
spot on a plate over the color already there.
Engravings. This
is the oldest of the intaglio processes. Albrecht Dürer
was the first artist to popularize this medium although there
are some examples of prints made from the engraved designs on
suits of armor from almost one hundred years earlier. In this
process the design is cut into a metal plate, usually copper
or zinc, with a sharp tool called a burin. The plate is wiped
clean with a type of starched cheesecloth called tarlatan. The
ink remains only in the furrows left by the burin. Dampened paper
(to make it soft) is placed on top of the plate and then they
are cushioned by blankets on top and run through a flatbed press,
between two rollers at several hundred pounds of pressure per
square inch. This forces the ink that is down inside the lines
of the plate onto the paper, leaving a raised inked line on the
surface of the paper with the background printing white where
the plate was wiped clean.
Steel
Engravings. A steel engraving is a print from
an engraved steel plate. Steel engravings are oftentimes recognized
by a stiffness found in their paper, although the engraved lines
themselves exhibit a very fine quality. Steel engraving developed
in the late 1700s and early 1800s. Copper plates were found to
be made more durable by facing them with steel. Steel engraving
remained a very important method of printing until around 1880.
Stipple
Engravings combine both of the arts of etching
and engraving. The design to be engraved is outlined by a needle
on a grained plate. This plate is then etched and dried. Next,
a graver is used to make small dots ("stippling").
These small dots give the effect of light and shade. Stipple
engraving became popular in the 1700s by an Italian artist, Bartolozzi.
The process was later enhanced and improved by the French who
used it in a widespread manner during the 1800s.
Dry
Points. In this process the artist draws directly
on a copper plate with a sharp needle with great force. This
leaves two burrs of copper, one on either side of the scratched
line. It is mostly the ink caught in the burrs that forms the
image on the paper in this case and not so much the ink in the
shallow line. Since the burrs wear off rapidly under the pressure
of the printing press and the abrasion of the wiping, only a
limited number of copies can be made, often as few as only 10
or so, before the plate wears out. This technique is very rapid
and produces an image very like a drawing. Dry point lines are
often incorporated into etchings and aquatints to add variety
of line and texture to the image.
Mezzotints
/ Manière Noire. An extremely difficult
and demanding (not to mention physically painful!) process in
which the artist begins by using a special tool called a rocker
to create a rough, even texture similar to sandpaper on the surface
of the metal plate. If this plate were to be printed in this
state the result would be a solid black image. Everything that
is required to print lighter than this black has to be scraped
away by hand with a metal tool and burnished smooth with another
to produce the gray tones and whites of the finished print. The
end result is a beautiful and almost photographic image. Many
mezzotint artists print in color; a separate plate must be produced
for each and every color and printed individually on top of the
previous print in a separate run through the press for each plate,
aligning each one in exact registration with the previous image.
Mezzotints are often very expensive, and this is why.
Etchings. Instead
of cutting directly onto the plate the artist covers the plate
with acid-resistant wax or tar-based ground and then draws on
the plate with a special sharp tool called an engraver's needle
to remove the ground and expose the metal underneath. The plate
is then immersed in an acid bath which bites into the plate where.
the protective covering has been removed. By leaving different
areas exposed to the acid for varying lengths of time the depth
and quality of the line bitten can be controlled. The finished
plate is then printed in the same way as an engraving. Rembrandt
van Rijn first popularized this medium. Some consider him the
father of printmaking as a fine art form.
Aquatints. Instead
of lines being bitten by the acid bath, in this process whole
areas are exposed to the acid to give a texture to the surface
of the plate. The area to be etched is first lightly dusted with
powdered resin and heated to melt it so it will adhere. It is
then placed in the acid bath to etch away the tiny areas not
protected by the granulated resin. This results in a sandpaper
like texture which prints as shades of gray, or tints of color
if colored ink is used. Most often aquatint is used in combination
with engraving or etching. However there are rare examples of
pure aquatint. It is a demanding and difficult technique that
can take years to master but the end result is a type of print
that can have a light and transparent quality like a watercolor.
Collagraphs are
a form of intaglio print related to etching and engraving. They
should not be confused with collotype which are a form of planograph.
Sometimes they may be referred to as collage
prints or collage intaglio.
Collagraphs differ from etchings and engravings in two ways:
Etchings
and engravings are done on metal plates, usually
copper or zinc. Collagraphs can be done on cardboard, paper,
wood, metal or plastic plates, or just about anything else that
can be run through a press.
Etching and engraving plates have incised or cut-into surfaces to produce
the textures from which the image is printed. Collagraphs are collaged,that
is, the printing surface is built up from other added materials.
Collagraphs are
printed in exactly the same way as etchings and engravings. They
can be printed either as intaglio or relief. They can also be
printed as a viscosity print in the same way as the others can.
Depending on how they are printed and from what material they
are made, the plates may last to produce editions as large as
150 prints, but usually editions of much smaller size are produced
by artists working in this medium. |
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PLANOGRAPHIC PROCESS
|
In this type of print the image is printed from a completely flat surface.
It is a chemical process based on the principle that oil and
water don't mix but resist each other. Another seldom-used name
for this type of process is resist process, There are only two
types of prints in this category: lithographs and collotypes
(not to be confused with collagraphs). Original lithographs should
not be confused with offset lithography. Original lithos are
done entirely by hand, while offsets are a common everyday type
of reproduction print. Newspapers and magazines, for example,
are printed this way. Fine art posters are produced by the offset
process as well, but more care is taken in their creation. Sometimes
extra color runs are added to improve the quality, but they still
remain photo-mechanical copies untouched by the artist's hand.
Original
Lithographs. Lithography was invented by
Aloys Senefelder in 1798 and immediately became immensely
popular as an artistic medium. In this technique the artist
actually draws on a specially prepared flat piece of limestone
or a metal plate made of either aluminum or zinc. The artist
uses a grease or wax crayon or a greasy drawing ink called
tusche to create the image just as if he or she were drawing
or painting on a piece of paper. In fact, the way the surface
is prepared (it is abraded down to a velvety texture by the
use of abrasive carborundum powder) makes the stone or plate
feel like you are drawing on a very heavy drawing paper.
In the case of stone lithography it is a VERY heavy paper
substitute; some stones can weigh as much as 300 or more
pounds. Forklifts must be used to move the artist's drawing
materials around. Stone lithography has gone out of favor
in recent years mainly because of the physical demands involved.
Also, a much easier and relatively new process called "mylar
transfer" (see below) Metal litho plates are very lightweight
and portable, but do not produce as fine an image as stone.
A good stone lithograph print is almost indistinguishable
from an original drawing. After the drawing is finished on
the stone or plate it is then treated with a mixture of gum
arabic and dilute phosphoric acid which reacts with the waxy
drawing materials to produce a type of water-repellent soap
that will accept the oil-based printing ink. During printing
the stone is alternately kept damp with water and then rolled
up with the oil-based ink. This is another extremely demanding
process. If the stone isn't kept damp enough, or the water
is either too acidic or too basic, the whole image can be
lost irretrievably and all the time spent developing it wasted.
The print paper is placed on top of the freshly inked stone
or plate. A specially constructed press has to be used not
only to bear the weight of the stones, but to support the
extreme pressures needed to print the image. Instead of a
press with a metal roller on top and on bottom like an etching
press, the litho press uses a narrow wooden or plastic scraper
bar above in contact with a greased sheet of metal or plastic
over the print paper. Pressure of up to two thousand pounds
per square inch is applied to this stone, paper, and plastic
sandwich as it is cranked by hand through the press. As in
most other print media, if more than one color is used separate
plates or stones must be made for each color. Each plate
or stone must be printed again on top of the previous runs
through the press.
Chromolithographs are
lithographs printed in several colors. Chromolithography
has existed probably since the early stages of lithograpic
printing.
Collotypes. Not
to be confused with collagraphs. In this extremely rare and
miserably difficult photographic medium the prints are printed
on either a regular etching press or litho press from glass
plates (yes, real glass...) coated with a thick gelatin-based
photographic silver-salt emulsion. The image is exposed on
the plate and developed just as a regular photograph would
be using all the same chemicals. But instead of printing
the image on light-sensitive paper, the gelatin plate is
kept damp in a humidity-controlled room (controlled to tropical
jungle levels of humidity) so the gelatin will absorb moisture
from the air where there is no black silver image protecting
it. Some of the few artists working in this medium go ahead
and use sponges very gingerly to keep the gelatin damp because
the act of printing works up enough of a sweat as it is without
resulting to subjecting the printer to drudge away in a sauna.
The plate is rolled up with an oil-based ink which, with
luck, sticks to the silvered areas and, with luck, is repelled
by the damp gelatin.
Obviously there are many potential drawbacks to this process, the worst
of which is the delicacy of the printing surface. If there is just
a little bit too much moisture in the air or if the sponge is too damp
the whole gelatin surface will dissolve causing the image to simply
peel off the plate. Another problem is the pressure of the press. If
there is any irregularity or bump in the press bed, or if too much
pressure is used on the glass plate... well, you know.
|
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STENCIL PROCESS
A
stencil is simply a hole or an opening through another material
through which ink or paint is applied to a surface underneath.
It can also be the opposite: a solid shape around which the
ink or paint is applied, creating a shadow effect. Each color
must be applied separately through other stencils cut or blocked
out to allow the color to line up where wanted on the design.
The stencil process along with offset lithography is one of
only two print media in which the image is worked as it will
be seen when printed, not backwards mirror-image as in all
other forms of printing.
Serigraphs,
also known as silk screen prints and screen prints, are a form
of stencil printing. It is a process that first appeared shortly
after 1900 and gained popularity among artists by the 1920's.
It is one of the most common forms of printmaking today. The
silk screen printer prepares a screen of finely woven fabric
(usually orlon, nylon, or silk) or sometimes very fine steel
screen for large editions, streched over a wooden frame. The
areas not to be printed are painted out with a glue or varnish
that will not be dissolved by the type of ink to be used. This
protects these areas of the paper that are to remain untouched
by the ink. Photo-emulsion films are also used extensively today
replacing the older hand-painted process. The ink is squeezed
through the screen onto the paper by a rubber squeegee. Large
editions are possible in serigraphy because of the speed and
ease (compared to other printmaking processes) with which they
can be printed. Many artists can do editions with as many as
100 colors or more because of this ease. Some multi-color serigraphs
can resemble paintings more than prints. Unfortunately however
the screen process requires the use of many highly toxic solvents
during the course of printing an edition, especially when vinyl-based
inks are used.
Pochoir
Prints. This is an uncommon process, first appearing
shortly before 1900 in France. In one version of this technique
ink or paint is lightly brushed through an opening cut through
a heavy paper or metal plate creating a kind of feathering effect.
In the other version a screen is used as in serigraphy, but with
a much coarser weave. Paint is then air-brushed through the stencil
onto the paper. |
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Mixed
Media Prints. In recent years there has
been a trend toward incorporating multiple
print media in the production of original prints. Prints
that combine two or more unrelated print processes are
called combination prints. Some examples are: an intaglio
print with colors rolled into different areas of the plate
through stencils; a lithograph printed on top of a colored
serigraph background; a woodcut mixed with serigraphy;
a collagraph used as a color plate behind a woodcut. The
list goes on. Artists traditionally test the limits of
their preferred media, and printmakers have always been
known to experiment, as well. The inherent unpredictability
of printmaking leads the artist to explore in new directions.
Most printmakers have chosen such a demanding form of expression
simply because the visual effects made possible with the
many print processes cannot be achieved by any other means.
Viscosity
Prints. The viscosity technique was developed
by Stanley William Hayter in France in the 1950's. It is a hybrid
combination of the intaglio process and the relief process. In
this process multiple colors are applied simultaneously to only
one plate. To start, the artist creates an intaglio plate with
several different levels. The plate is inked up with a stiff
ink and wiped clean just as a normal intaglio print would be.
But then it's rolled up relief print style with rollers inked
with inks of different viscosities, or runniness. Depending on
whether the rollers used are soft or hard, or whether pressure
is applied while rolling-up or not, the ink rolled on to the
plate can be made to adhere to its different levels. Inks of
differing viscosities will not readily mix, similar to the way
oil and water don't like to mix. So by experimenting with different
combinations of soft roller plus stiff ink or hard roller with
loose ink, or almost endless other combinations the artist can
achieve a very rich and painterly effect with many colors in
only one run through the press.
The benefits of this are clear: printing is hard enough as it is without
having to resort to multiple runs through the press for extra colors.
The fewer plates the better. The drawback is that this process is close
to being uncontrollable. A regular standard process edition always has
some natural variation, usually minor, between the individual prints
within it, but an edition of viscosity prints has wild variations of
color and texture.
Chine-collé. In
this process the artist uses small pieces of colored or metallic
papers instead of (or in combination with) colored inks to create
a color print. The papers are cut into the proper shapes to fit
within the areas that need color, then the backs of the papers
are lightly painted with glue. While the glue is still wet the
colored papers are placed glue-side-up on top of the appropriate
areas of the inked plate. The paper to be printed on is placed
on top of all this and everything is run through the press. The
resulting effect is that of a collage.
Transfer
Prints. This interesting cross between viscosity
and offset printing, though unpredictable, produces some rather
nice effects. In this first example the technique requires a
minimum of two rollers, at least one with a large diameter, and
two or more plates. Normally only one of these plates is ever
run through the press and printed on paper, however. To give
a basic example: the artist begins with a plate that has little
texture and inks it as an intaglio print. The other plate is
a relief plate and is rolled up with a stiff ink. Instead of
printing this relief image on a piece of paper, though, the artist
takes a clean un-inked roller with a circumference larger than
the width of the relief plate. This roller is rolled over the
surface or the inked relief and picks up the image, offset style,
on its surface. The edge of the image on the roller is then aligned
with the edge of the inked intaglio plate and the roller is pressed
and rolled across that plate, neatly depositing onto its surface
the image that was previously picked up from the other plate.
Other looser inks may be rolled over this double image to add
more color before it is run through the press and printed. The
effect obtained is reminiscent of old frescoes or cave paintings.
There is another form of transfer print in which the artist uses a recently
printed magazine photograph or a very recently done color copy. This
image is then coated on the back with transparent serigraph ink which
contains a lot of acetone, a solvent. The coated picture is placed image-side-down
on piece of printing paper and another piece of absorbent paper is placed
over that. Acetone or lacquer thinner is brushed over the top sheet of
paper and then the whole thing is run through a press several times with
great pressure, sometimes applying more solvent between runs. The image
is transferred to the printing paper, if everything works out all right |
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II.
NOT 'ORIGINAL PRINTS'
PHOTO-MECHANICAL PROCESS
This
category includes mostly those types of prints intended to
be used as posters, although some artists are producing hand-drawn
offset lithographs in small, limited editions and other artists
are experimenting with hand manipulated and modified color
copies as original prints. The Printmaking Police don't always
accept these as originals, however. There are just as many
printmaker purists out there as there are experimenters.
Very few prints produced photo-mechanically can actually
qualify to be called original prints, though. The element
of the artist's direct control and manipulation of the medium
is missing.
Offset
Lithographs. These are the prints that comprise
the bulk of the poster market. They are inexpensive to print
in large quantities so they can be sold at affordable prices.
Original prints are very labor-intensive and therefore often
sell for hundreds of dollars each, placing them out of the
financial reach of most potential art collectors. The process
is the same in principle as in an original lithograph, but
offsets are printed on huge, high-speed mechanical presses
often in quantities of thousands of prints at a time. A big
technical difference between the two media is the concept
of offset printing. In an original litho the stone or plate
is inked up and then printed directly on a piece of paper.
In the offset process the plate prints, or offsets the image
onto a rubber roller and then the image is printed from that
onto the paper. This causes a double reversal of the image,
so the plate appears just as the print will appear. The image
on the plate is not a mirror image of the final image as
in the other print media (with the exception of the stencil
processes)
If you look very closely at an offset poster print you will
see a regular pattern of colored dots, similar to the dots
in color comics in the newspaper. The dots are called a "half-tone screen" or half
tone for short. The only way to reproduce the colors of the original
artwork that was photographed is to break down the colors into four
components, the "four-color process", sometimes called the
Pantone process. The four primary colors in offset printing are magenta,
cyan, yellow, and black. If you look closely at the dots you will see
that they are printed only in those four colors. By printing the dots
larger or smaller side-by-side with the other colors the eye is fooled
into seeing the mixed secondary and tertiary colors. The more dots
per square inch, the better (and more expensive) the print, but it's
still an offset and not an original print. Original hand-drawn lithographs
do not have the half-tone dots, unless for some reason the artist chose
to use a photo process in part of the image. In an original print each
color is mixed by hand and is printed separately, and even under a
microscope the drawing looks like a drawing, not a comic-book page.
Mylar
Transfers. It is possible to produce a sort
of hybrid hand-manipulated offset print, however, using the "mylar" process.
In this technique the artist draws the image on a sheet of
transparent mylar plastic. The image is then exposed on a
photo-chemically coated aluminum offset plate and then printed.
Some people consider this a type of original print, but in
this artist/printer's opinion it blurs the distinction between "original" and "copy" since
there is no need for knowledge of or experience in the lithographic
process by the artist who is doing the drawing. This process
is a very useful shortcut to getting precise registration
of color in multiple plate images, however, and an added
benefit is that the artist does not have to draw the image
backwards as in the traditional process. A mylar transfer
lithograph has no halftone as a photo-mechanically produced
poster would, and is almost indistinguishable from a lithograph
drawn by hand on a plate.
Color
Copies. Many artists are experimenting with
color copy machines as an additional tool for producing an
image. Theoretically, original prints cannot be produced
in this manner because of the lack of a matrix made by the
artist that physically produces the image. The copy machine
does just what it says. It makes copies, not originals. However,
a copy can be the basic image which the artist then adds
to and modifies into a mixed media print.
Giclée
Prints are another type of color copy produced
with the aid of a computer on a large, special color plotter.
Like other color copies they are not originals and can be
printed in quantity or one at a time. Unlike offset lithographs
however, they do not have the half-tone dot pattern, but
a smoother and random array of tiny dots of color. |
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SILK
PAINTING TECHNIQUE
The Serti (closing
or fence) technique is the silk painting technique where
designs are formed with gutta or water-based resists,
which are applied to silk that has been pre-washed, dried
and stretched (on a stretcher). Once the gutta or water-based
resist has dried, it acts as a barrier for the dye or
paint—keeping the color within the outlined areas
of the design and allowing you to achieve sharply defined
borders. (Without this barrier, the dye or paint would
flow into more of an abstract, undefined pattern.) After
the dye or paint has been properly set, the clear gutta
or resist is removed and a defining line the color of
the original fabric remains. Colored guttas and resists
are also available that are meant to remain in the fabric. |
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THANGKA
PAINTING TECHNIQUE
The traditional materials
used in creating a thangka painting: the paint used consists
of powdered pigments, mostly mineral, mixed with a binder
of gelatin (a dilute solution of hide glue). This media
is water-sensitive and matte in appearance. The support
is usually cotton, sized with warm hide glue on its obverse
and reverse sides. A ground layer, often created from chalk
or kaolin, is added to the size solution, applied to the
support, and burnished. Upon completion of the painting,
borders made from other fabrics may be added. |
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